Amiable Student Puppy Page

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HOUSEBREAKING*

• “Plug-up” the goofing-gaps by using tie-out stations primarily,; and umbilical cording, crating and baby gates as a back-up plan
• Teach ‘Elimination on Command’ during your frequent, leashed outings
• Keep a log of habits:
  • When and where he relieves himself
  • When and how much he eats
• Feed a high quality diet at scheduled times (no treats, people food, or edible toys like pigs ears
• Clean-up messes immediately (remove debris and blot moisture, then treat with neutralizer and cleaner)
• Never correct after the fact

*NOTE: At two to four months of age most pups need to relieve themselves after waking, eating, playing, sleeping, and drinking. Be prepared to take them out as often as every thirty to fifty minutes.

CRATE TRAINING

• Teach your pup to go in and out of enclosures on command
• Give him a fun toy and possibly water, food and bedding
• To quiet noisy pups:
  • Ignore them
  • Cover their crate
  • Use a startling correction (water pistol, shaker can, hand clap, toss 2 litter empty bottle, or leash jerk)

PROPER TOYS

• Wet, twist, and freeze wash rags and give one to puppy to relieve the discomfort of teething (replace with another when it begins to thaw)
• Authentic Nylabones, rubber Kongs, and manufactured natural sterilized bones
• Avoid giving personal items, soft or rag-like toys, or edible products

RECOMMENDED READING: Training in No Time by Amy Ammen (Problem Prevention p. 40-43, Quiet p. 77, Housebreaking p. 91-93); Everything Puppy Book by Amy Ammen: (Housebreaking and Crating p. 139-151)

NEXT WEEK — BRING TOYS

SETTLE POSITION

To calm pup or teach him to accept restraint, lay him down then roll him on his back. Straddle him with your knees and place your thumbs along ribcage under his arm pits. Remain still and calm. Release him when he relaxes.

MOUTHING AND BITING OF HUMANS

• Give plenty of exercise; keep leashed; and elicit play with proper toys
• Correct mouthing by either:
  • Quietly screeching “Ouch!” jerking leash, and eliciting play with proper toy.
  • Using lip pinch, muzzle closure, or Bitter Apple spray on lip line.

CHASING AFTER OR BITING AT CHILDREN

• Never allow unsupervised contact and always intervene to curtail disrespectful, inappropriate actions from puppy or child.
• Attach leash to puppy. Jerk leash as child says “Ouch” and/or as puppy begins chasing the child.

INAPPROPRIATE CHEWING

• Puppy-proof and confine in safe place when you can’t supervise
• Keep leashed and correct with leash jerk, Bitter Apple spray, or startle clap if caught in the act, then play with appropriate toy
• Use Bitter Apple Cream on tempting woodwork

SHOPPING EXERCISE

Teach your puppy the difference between his toys and taboo items.

1. Choose a word to mean ‘get that out of your mouth’ (use same word whether he has a finger, slipper, or dead rabbit).
2. Place a number of personal items and paper items on the floor and allow pup to explore.
3. As he picks up taboo item, command “Drop It” and jerk the leash. Quickly move toward puppy, and elicit play with appropriate toy.

TROUBLE SHOOTING TIP: If he doesn’t drop taboo item as you jerk lead, spray your finger with bitter apple and slide finger along gumline as you command “Drop It.” If he still doesn’t drop, spray Bitter Apple directly against lip line.

RECOMMENDED READING: Training in No Time by Amy Ammen: (Proper Play p. 23-28, Tantrums p. 38, Drop It p. 77&80, Stealing p. 86-90), Everything Puppy Book by Amy Ammen: (Settle p. 157, Chewing p. 179-181, Tug-of-War p. 185, Drop It p. 189, Problem Prevention p. 190)

NEXT WEEK — BRING TOYS

GROOMING

1. Acclimate pup to handling of all areas of the head, feet and body
2. Hold collar with one hand so you can jerk it to settle a feisty pup
3. Perform grooming procedures on a small elevated surface to encourage better cooperation from your puppy
   • Ears – Be alert to infections (they require immediate veterinary attention)
   • Teeth – Check that pup is losing baby teeth as adult teeth come in. Brush teeth regularly to prevent tartar build up.
   • Bathing – Use dog shampoo and simplify the job by putting dog in a utility tub and using a hose attachment to direct and control water flow. Keep water tepid and rinse thoroughly
   • Brushing Coat Tools for:
     • Smooth coats – Wash cloth or mitt
     • Shedding coats – Slicker brush or shedding blade
     • Tangling coats – Slicker brush followed by comb to check your work

CAR RIDING

• Teach pup to go in and out on command
• Secure puppy by using a:
  • Crate
  • Store bought doggy seat-belt
  • Non-chewable leash tied to seat belt fitting (allow pup only enough slack to lie down or sit)

DIGGING

• When unsupervised, always leave your dog in ‘dig-proof’ areas
• Stop your puppy in the act of digging by:
  • Jerking leash
  • Creating a sharp noise
  • Tossing a penny can or empty 2 liter bottle at him

PROBLEM SOLVING OPTIONS

• Change Environment – Keep doors shut so he can’t sneak into the kid’s rooms to steal stuffed toys
• Change Your Attitude – “I don’t care if he is on the furniture, barks, dumps garbage, poops on my pillow, etc”
• Change Dog’s Behavior with:
  • Avoidance Corrections – spray water, create loud and/or sharp noise, set mousetraps, toss penny can, use scat mat, or employ motion detector in off-limits areas
  • Redirection – toy, food, or ‘Rapid Fire Commands’

Continue training with ESSENTIAL BASIC TRAINING – covers perfecting walking skills, one command control around distractions, social skills and problem solving for adolescent dogs. Prerequisite for Mastering Basics and Off-leash Control classes.

RECOMMENDED READING: Training in No Time: (Proper Care and Grooming p. 13-21, Wait p. 60-66, Social Etiquette 82-88), Everything Puppy Book by Amy Ammen: (Car Riding p. 157, Grooming p. 156, Come p. 201, Wait p. 203-204)

COMMANDS: GENERAL RULES (don’t repeat, enforce w/pull or jerk, and push on rear for sit and shoulders on down)

• SIT
• DOWN
• OFF
• COME

COMMANDS: GENERAL RULES

1. Give commands only when you can enforce
2. Never repeat commands, always enforce your first command
3. Formalize your voice (aways puppy’s name followed by command
4. After giving verbal praise, release with Chin-touch “Okay”

SIT

• Pull up on collar as you push down on loin

DOWN

• Pull collar down as you push neck or shoulder down with palm and pet tummy to reward.

COME

• Reel in lead as you back up and say “Good, good, gooood!”
• Kneel down to celebrate arrival
• Practice ‘Pass the Puppy’ with family

JUMPING UP*

To stop jumping up, the choice is yours:

• Shuffle or stumble into puppy as he jumps
• Stand on leash so it tightens every time he attempts to jump up
• Teach “OFF” command. Enforce with:
  • knee bump
  • toe slide
  • nose tap
  • leash jerk

*NOTE: Don’t allow friends or family to encourage emotional greetings. Abide by the ‘fifteen minute rule.’

RECOMMENDED READING: Training in No Time: (Commands p. 51-60,66-76), Everything Puppy Book by Amy Ammen: (Commands p. 164, 172, Come p. 200 & 202)

COMMANDS – Second step, general rules:

• Sit and Down – Give command and, if pup doesn’t respond immediately, enforce with placement and release with Chin-touch “Okay.”
• Come – Give command and, if pup doesn’t come immediately, enforce with leash jerks, backward movement, and praise.

WAIT — Objective: Teach your dog to only go through doors when released with Chin-touch “Okay”

Procedure:

1. Command “Wait”
2. Open door the width of your puppy’s shoulders
3. Use quick action of the door to bump dog’s nose if he tries to pass through
4. Convey right of passage with Chin-touch “Okay”

WALKING ON LEASH — Use proper leash and collar (this varies so ask my advice). Walk puppy on left side. Use lure to keep you dog moving. Do right about turn if puppy starts lunging ahead

OPTIONAL EXERCISE — Teach your dog to HOLD STILL while ATTACHING AND REMOVING COLLARS and leashes

WALKING ON LEASH — Hold leash in right hand and walk puppy on left side. When he attempts to leave your side, go opposite:

• if he lags behind, continue walking forward
• if he forges, drop the slack in the leash, call come and do a right about-turn. Walk briskly and gather slack when puppy begins to follow

COME AT A DISTANCE

• Objective: Use Wrap, Run and Praise to teach your puppy to come when called from anywhere no matter what the distraction.
• Procedure: Anytime your puppy is outdoors with you, attach very long line. Position yourself to grab the line and, when he is preoccupied, call him to come.
• Continually say GOOD DOG! as you run away from him with the line in hand. When he is chasing you, continue verbal praise as you squat down. Release your puppy with the Chin -Touch “Okay.”

BOUNDARY TRAINING

• Determine the deliniation of the boundaries (a surface or elevation change is best).
• Attach long, light-weight line.
• Command “Wait” as your puppy crosses the boundary.
• Jerk the line to correct.
• Keep the line “grounded out” between corrections.
• Praise verbally, but ignore pup if he comes to you.

RAPID FIRE COMMANDS

• To improve your dog’s understanding of and response to commands, practice six to ten commands in very quick succession several times a day.
• Enforce fast response rather that waiting for dog to oblige.
• Keep moving and using enthusiastic praise throughout.

Use Rapid Fire Commands when :

• Your dog is being naughty.
• Your dog has pent-up energy.
• You want to sharpen his obedience to commands.

RECOMMENDED READING: Training in No Time: (Problem Prevention and Problem Solving Tips p. 29-38, 40-49, 95-104), Everything Puppy Book by Amy Ammen: (Come p. 202, Rapid Fire Commands p. 260)

ON THIS PAGE:

1. Greatest House Breaking Myths
2. Learn How To House Break
3. Tie-out Videos
4. Puppy Class Review Lesson

GREATEST HOUSE BREAKING MYTHS

MYTH #1: THE LONGER YOUR DOG IS OUTSIDE, the less likely he is to mess in the house. Dogs enjoy playing, observing, and investigating when left alone outdoors but often forget about going potty. Therefore:

• Always watch and chant the “potty command” and teach your dog to GO POTTY fast
• Have your dog earn play time by pottying first and playing afterwards

MYTH #2: IF YOUR DOG GOES POTTY OUTSIDE, it must be safe to give him freedom. Sometimes puppies and mature dogs will, for no apparent reason, relieve themselves several times in a short period. Even if your dog doesn’t soil the house, supervision may be crucial. Tie-out stations prevent an untrained dog from discovering how to raid the garbage; steal laundry; jump on counters; or chew furnishings AND teach him to be relaxed.

Scroll down page to see more examples of tie-out success*

MYTH #3: ONCE HOUSEBROKEN, always house broken. Certain conditions can cause very reliable dogs to backslide.

• Changes in diet disrupt normal elimination patterns.
• Weather variations (heat, cold, wet grass, rain and/or thunder) may make outings undesirable.
• New environments such as a new home, a friend’s house, or vacation home may not automatically be accepted as living quarters. No matter how beautiful, your dog’s natural reaction will likely be to treat these places like the great outdoors.
• Steroids and other medications, as well as pregnancy and the beginning of a heat cycle, will trigger unusually frequent elimination.

MYTH #4: DOGS WHO CAN HOLD IT in their cage, all night, or for extended periods are well on their way to being housebroken. Metabolism slows down with inactivity, therefore, even a totally untrained dog may not soil for six to twelve hours when caged. Dogs aren’t trained until they understand, “When I’m outdoors it’s okay to move about, explore and go potty but INSIDE I must ‘hold it’ when sniffing and playing.”

MYTH #5: ALWAYS SCOLD when you see him going indoors. Some dogs leak (urinate submissively due to an emotional reflex) when they get excited or frightened. Some dogs get frantic when they are left alone and soil. To stop the inappropriate elimination:

• Teach the submissive wetter to concentrate on something other than his emotions by giving commands in an unemotional way or teaching platform training.
• Address the separation anxiety by teaching the dog to go in an out of enclosures on command, obeying a sit stay when you are out of sight and treating all arrivals and departures as non-events.

MYTH #6: DOGS SHOULD INDICATE when they need to go out. Dogs often indicate when they want to go outdoors and play, instead of when they need to potty. Also, many dogs will indicate frequently and always eliminate. If your dog is conditioned to going out every time he asks and either you’re not available or quick enough to respond, he may have to go because he hasn’t developed the capacity and control to hold it. Don’t encourage indication.

INSTEAD, TRAIN PUPPIES to control their elimination with supervision and tie-out stations, proper diet and by following “potty break” schedule. After he’s trained, you can easily encourage him to let you know. But why would you need to?

LEARN HOW TO HOUSE BREAK:

• The Everything Puppy Book by Carlo DeVito and Amy Ammen
• Enroll with Amiable Dog Training
• View more tie-out station videos on Youtube
• Take the Puppy Behavior Quiz